“一包白菜一捆蔥,歡歡喜喜過一冬。”對于許多北方人,尤其是老一輩而言,初冬時節囤積大白菜,是刻在記憶里的“頭等大事”。
每當卡車滿載著層層疊疊的白菜駛入街道,人們便自發排起長隊,一買就是上百斤,仿佛北方冬日來臨前特有的儀式感。
For many residents of North China, especially among the older generation, stocking up on Chinese cabbage is a seasonal ritual that heralds the arrival of winter.
A common sight each year is trucks laden with fresh Chinese cabbages rolling into neighborhoods, where residents line up to buy them by the hundreds of pounds.
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在物資尚不豐裕的年代,大白菜以親民的價格和出色的耐儲性,成為千家萬戶餐桌上的“主角”。如今,冬季蔬菜供應日益豐富多元,囤白菜已然成為一種承載著情感與記憶的文化傳統。
In earlier times, when food options were limited, the affordable and durable Chinese cabbage reigned supreme on dinner tables throughout the cold months. Today, the annual Chinese cabbage purchase has become a cherished tradition for many northerners.
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然而,當今消費者在冬季蔬菜儲備上,追求的已不僅僅是“量”的充足帶來的安全感,更注重“質”的享受。白菜的品種、口感成為關鍵,小棵型、高品質的精品白菜正成為市場新寵。
However, modern consumers are now prioritizing quality over quantity, with greater attention given to variety, texture, and taste.
眼下又到了北京冬儲大白菜上市的季節。在距離北京130多公里的河北玉田縣,菜農們正忙碌地采收,為保障首都冬季“菜籃子”供應做足準備。
This year's winter Chinese cabbage supply season has begun. In Yutian county, Hebei province, farmers are busy harvesting Chinese cabbage to ensure steady supply to neighboring regions, including Beijing.
這里的玉田包尖白菜,因其耐貯藏、不易抽薹(開花)的特性,一直是京津地區冬儲白菜的首選。立冬前后,菜農們將一棵棵葉球直筒擰抱、頂部尖聳的包尖白菜砍下,細致地剝去外層老葉,整齊碼放,最終運往北京最大的農產品交易市場新發地。
Prized for its excellent storage quality and resistance to bolting, Chinese cabbage grown in Yutian has long been the preferred choice for residents in Beijing and Tianjin.
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“玉田白菜甜脆,做餡不出水,清鮮;炒著吃也自帶一股香味。”北京市民王女士的評價,道出了許多人的喜好。
“The variety from Yutian is sweet and crisp. When used in fillings, it doesn’t release much water, so the taste stays fresh. When stir-fried, it has a natural fragrance all its own,” said Wang Yuzhi, a 63-year-old Beijing resident.
這份獨特的風味從何而來?白菜育種專家張淑江研究員揭示了其中的奧秘:玉田縣的地下水中,偏硅酸和鍶的含量達到了國家礦泉水標準,加之肥沃的土壤與適宜的季風氣候,共同造就了包尖白菜“幫薄味甜、纖維少、水分足”的卓越品質。
科技的加持讓傳統品種煥發新生。張淑江研究員團隊培育的白菜新品種“綠筍70”,展現了出色的抗逆性和生長勢頭。面對今年玉田地區的持續陰雨天氣,“綠筍70”依然保持了高產優質,顯著提升了種植效益和市場競爭力。
Zhang Shujiang, a Chinese cabbage breeding expert, and his team have developed a new hybrid variety named Lyusun 70, which shows remarkable resilience and vigorous growth. Despite persistent rainy weather this year in Yutian, Lyusun 70 maintained high yield and quality, boosting both profits and market competitiveness.
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農民合作社負責人蔡連柱(左)與張淑江研究員(右)在玉田縣的白菜田交流
“這個雜交一代新品種,植株直立,葉球擰抱像顆炮彈。它不僅抗性強、極耐儲藏,而且質地甘脆,生熟皆可,入鍋易熟爛。”張淑江介紹道。在2025年第八屆京津冀蔬菜產業發展大會上,“玉田包尖白菜”多項營養指標被檢測出高于全國樣品平均值18.7%至47.6%,品質獲得權威認可。
“It’s a first-generation hybrid with upright plants and tightly wrapped leaves shaped like a shell. In addition to its strong disease resistance, it stores well and has a sweet, crisp texture, making it suitable for both raw and cooked dishes.”
據新發地市場數據,玉田縣每年供應北京的冬儲大白菜超過30萬噸,其中包尖白菜的供應量超過7.5萬噸。此外,玉田蔬菜已與“超市發”等大型連鎖商超建立了長期穩定的合作關系。
According to data from the Xinfadi market, a wholesale food market in Beijing's Fengtai district, the county supplies over 300,000 metric tons of winter Chinese cabbages to Beijing annually, with the variety from Yutian accounting for more than 75,000 tons.
在這個物流發達、四季菜蔬琳瑯滿目的時代,大白菜不再僅僅是過冬的儲備,更承載著北方人充滿煙火氣的冬日記憶。
記者:趙伊夢
實習生:靳佳欣
跟著China Daily
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